People Related to Japanese Tea | Eisai
Eisai was called “father of tea”. However, Eisai was not the first person to bring tea into Japan. So why is Eisai called “father of tea”? I will explain the reason through the relationship between “Zen” and “tea”.
About Eisai
Eisai (1141-1215) started studying the teachings of the Tendai sect as a teenager and visited China twice to study it more deeply.
After returning to Japan, Eisai became the founder of the Rinzai sect in Japan.
Eisai had been exposed to the wonders of tea in China and brought back the seeds to Japan.
He propagated the Rinzai sect and at the same time spread tea cultivation methods and the culture associated with tea.
While being persecuted by the Tendai sect, he endeavored to propagate the Rinzai sect and wrote books such as Kozen Gokoku-ron and Ichidai Kyoron Shaku.
Achievement of Eisai, the Father of tea
In this chapter, I will introduce how Zen monk Eisai was involved in tea.
Bringing tea culture to Japan and spreading it
Tea had been brought to Japan since before Eisai was born. So why is Eisai called Japan's “Father of the”?
That's because Eisai brought the tea culture to Japan for the first time.
By the way, the tea brought in by Eisai at that time was Tencha (matcha before grinding), which was popular in China.
The method of making and drinking tea was introduced to Japan, and Tencha became a substitute for Heicha, which had been drunk before, and became the basis of green tea culture.
In China, however, Tencha was later obsolete due to the change of power.
Furthermore, Eisai brought back with him the ”Sarei (ritual)” of the Zen sect of drinking tea. It is to drink tea prepared in a kettle several times a day between practices or at bedtime. It means to practice with one mind.
In a larger event, all participants gathered together to share a kettle of tea. This Sarei would lead to the tea ceremony later.
Trigger the full-scale cultivation of tea
Eisai created the opportunity to create an authentic tea garden. Eisai brought back knowledge about tea seeds and tea cultivation when he returned from China and promoted tea cultivation in temples.
This is because the awakening effect of tea was very effective in the strict ascetic practices of the Zen sect.
The seeds and knowledge of tea spread in this way were passed on to Myoe Shonin in Togano, Kyoto, and it developed into an authentic tea garden.
The tea from this tea garden was so popular that Togano’s tea was called “honcha (real tea)”, while the tea from other regions was called “hicha (not real tea)”.
Spread the Rinzai sect in Japan
Eisai spread the Zen Buddhism, Rinzai Sect as well as tea cultivation and culture. Tea and Zen were closely linked, and the philosophy of Zen had a great influence on the person who made the history of tea.
The relationship between the tea masters and Zen monks of the Rinzai sect, such as MURATA Juko and IKKYU Sojun, TAKENO Jouo and DAIRIN Soto, and SHOREI Sokin and SEN-no-Rikyu, has become an essential part of the history of the tea ceremony.
Wrote KissaYojoki, the first book specialized in tea in Japan
Eisai wrote Kissa Yojoki (Drinking Tea for Health care) to promote tea.
This book, consisting of two volumes, was the first specialized book on tea in Japan, and it describes not only the medical effects of tea learned in China, but also the tea cultivation in detail.
According to the history book Azuma Kagami, Eisai presented Kissa Yojoki to the third shogun of the Kamakura Shogunate, MINAMOTO no Sanetomo, with tea when he was suffering from a hangover.
Tea culture from the Heian to the Kamakura period
During the Heian period, tea was used in religious events and ceremonies in the Imperial Court.
Tea was a special drink and medicine that only monks and aristocrats could drink.
After that, it gradually changed to something to “enjoy” drinking at waka and renga (Japanese poetry) recitations.
In the Kamakura period (1185-1333), tea ceremony rituals called “Sarei”, which Eisai brought back from China, began to be held in Zen temples.
On the other hand, drinking tea became popular among the samurai class as a social tool.
The “Cha-yoriai”, gathering to drink tea began to take place, and in the late Kamakura period, “Tocha” the game of guessing the place of origin by drinking tea, became popular. However, gambling took place at the same time as Tocha, and it became so radical that the Shogunate finally banned Tocha.
Eisai is not the first person to bring tea back to Japan. However, Eisai brought Zen and tea that he had learned in China back to Japan and spread them throughout the country, leading them to combine and develop into the present Chanoyu. This is why Eisai is called the “Father of tea”.
People Related to Japanese Tea | SEN-no-Rikyu
SEN-no-Rikyu was a charismatic master of tea ceremony in the Sengoku period.
What did Rikyu pursue throughout his life, and how did he live his life? I will explain the life of a charismatic man.
Life of SEN-no-Rikyu
SEN-no-Rikyu (1522-1591) was born to a wealthy merchant family in Sakai, Osaka.
Sakai at that time was a town that prospered through trade and was controlled by merchants.
Rikyu began learning tea ceremony at the age of 17 and studied under TAKENO Jouo.
As a merchant, he devoted himself to his family business and made a fortune, while pursuing the art of Chanoyu, he studied Zen under SHOREI Sokin.
When Rikyu was 50 years old, ODA Nobunaga focused on Sakai's wealth and made it his direct domain, employing Rikyu and two others as tea masters.
After Nobunaga’s death, he served TOYOTOMI Hideyoshi, and he presented tea to Emperor Ogimachi, at the “Court Tea Ceremony” commemorating Hideyoshi's inauguration to Kanpaku.
He was granted “Rikyu Kojigo (a name given to a Buddhist layman)” and became the greatest master of tea ceremony both in name and reality.
Hideyoshi's younger brother Hidenaga's words, “Rikyu knows all about confidential matters, but Hidenaga knows all about public matters.” show that Rikyu was at the center of the Shogunate.
However, he later incurred Hideyoshi's wrath and ended his life with ritual suicide.
Completion of Wabicha in the teahouse “Taian (National Treasure)”
The spirit of Wabicha that Rikyu perfected is condensed into the tea room designed by Rikyu, called “Taian (National Treasure)”.
“Taian” is a two tatami mat size teahouse designed based on the aesthetics of Rikyu by removing unnecessary elements to the utmost extent.
In particular, the spirit of the tea ceremony that Rikyu valued the most is expressed in the creation of the “nijiri-guchi (entrance)”.
It is a narrow entrance located in a low position. Even high class samurai cannot enter unless they are in a posture that makes them crawl by taking off their swords and lowering their heads.
Nijiri-guchi shows that everyone who attends Chanoyu is equal regardless of their social status.
Chanoyu in samurai society
Nobunaga encouraged his vassals to participate in the tea ceremony. Only the vassals who were given permission were allowed to hold tea ceremonies, and they were given expensive tea bowls as rewards for their military exploits.
He made it a status of samurai to have famous tea utensils and to be proficient in Chanoyu.
As a result, the value of famous tea utensils has come to be equal to the lives of warlords as well as to the country.
When Nobunaga, who had an advantage in the battle with a warlord, told that his life would be saved if he handed over his famous teakettle, that warlord said “I cannot give you my teakettle” Then, the warlord put an explosive in his teakettle and blew himself up. This was an unbelievable story that showed Chanoyu had become the status of the samurai.
Episodes of “SEN-no-Rikyu”
Rikyu left behind many episodes that tell us about his personality and his way of thinking about the tea ceremony.
What can and cannot be changed in Wabicha
Nobunaga, who had Rikyu make tea, noticed that Rikyu's way of making tea was simplified.
When Nobunaga asked Rikyu, “Why?” he answered, “People today would be reluctant to do it according to the old ways because they have no patience. That’s why I made it simple”.
Judging from Rikyu's flexible attitude that was willing to change the manners of Wabicha according to the times and his attitude that did not allow any compromise with the spirituality of the aesthetics and hospitality that Wabicha required, we can see what Rikyu valued in “Wabicha”.
Morning glory tea ceremony
One early summer morning, Rikyu invited Hideyoshi to a tea ceremony, saying, “The morning glories are beautiful”.
When Hideyoshi came to see the morning glories in full bloom, all the morning glories in the garden were gone.
Sadly, when Hideyoshi entered the teahouse, he found a single flower of morning glory in the tokonoma (alcove) where the light shines in.
It is said that Hideyoshi admired the beauty of the morning glory, which stood out because it was a single flower, and Rikyu's sense of masterfully producing it.
Rikyu’s seven roles
When Rikyu was asked by his disciple, “What is Chanoyu?” he replied, “Rikyu’s seven roles”.
“Brew tea just as good as it is for the guests, put the charcoal so that the water boils, be cool in summer and be warm in winter, let flowers be as they are in the fields, be on time, even if it doesn't rain, be ready for rain, and be mindful with your guests.”
To this the disciple replied that he could understand that much, and Rikyu replied, “If you can do it well enough, I will be your disciple.”
It conveys Rikyu's sincere attitude that ordinary things are difficult and should not be neglected.
The birth of charismatic tea master, Rikyu
At a tea ceremony commemorating Hideyoshi’s inauguration to Kanpaku, Rikyu was granted the title “Rikyu” by Emperor Ogimachi.
After that, he presided over “Kitano Grand Tea Ceremony” and firmly established his position as “the greatest tea master in the world” both in name and reality.
The “Kitano Grand Tea Ceremony” was held to show Hideyoshi's power, and from peasants to people of high rank, regardless of their social status, could participate in it with just one tea bowl.
It is said that Hideyoshi, Rikyu, and two other tea masters served tea to the guests, and nearly 1000 people attended in one day.
Seppuku (suicide)
Rikyu was ordered to commit seppuku (hara-kiri) by Hideyoshi, but even his last words and actions show the spirit of Chanoyu.
It is said that Rikyu told a messenger who came to convey Hideyoshi's order to commit hara-kiri, “Tea is ready in the teahouse”. After serving tea and entertaining the messenger, Rikyu committed hara-kiri.
Furthermore, in a letter to someone before committed hara-kiri, he wrote, “If only the heart had killed emotions like a rock or a tree, that the city would have been a good place to live”.
Rikyu wrote a poem about his feeling that “I cannot fake my mind (spirit of the tea ceremony), then I will choose death”.
People Related to Japanese Tea | MURATA Juko
MURATA Juko (1422-1502) was born in Yamato Province (present Nara Prefecture). Juko grew up and entered Shomyo-ji (Temple) of the Jodo sect, but hated becoming a priest and studied under Noami, an artist and tea master in Kyoto.
It is said that he learned Chanoyu (tea ceremony), Japanese and Chinese renku (poetry), Noh (traditional play), Tachibana (flower arrangement) and Karamono (Chinese objects), and became ASHIKAGA Yoshimasa’s tea ceremony instructor on the recommendation of Noami.
He also interacted with IKKYU Sojun, a monk of the Rinzai sect, and learned Zen from him.
Based on these experiences, he discovered the spirit that formed the basis of “Wabicha”. In the time of Juko, the main event was the luxurious tea party (tea of the palace) where people enjoyed tea while loving foreign goods, but the spirit of “New tea ceremony” discovered by Juko was passed on to his disciples even after his death, and eventually led to the present Sadou (tea ceremony).
“Wabicha” aimed by MURATA Juko
Let's take a look at the “Wabicha” that Juko aimed at from his words.
Words related to “things”
Juko left the words, “It is vital to eliminate the sphere of Japanese and Chinese art”.
In contrast to the tendency to favor only Karamono (Chinese objects), he insisted that it was important to pay attention to the simple beauty of Japanese pottery as well, and brought a new sense of beauty to the world of Chanoyu (tea ceremony).
The tea utensils left by Juko are called “Juko Specialty” and there is an anecdote that one of them was used by SEN no Rikyu.
In addition, the words, “It is better to see the moon hidden between the clouds than the shining full moon, which is more beautiful”, indicate a new type of tea ceremony that considers the beauty of lack to be good.
This sense of beauty also influenced the construction of the teahouse, and Juko aimed to create beauty that appeared by dividing the teahouse into a small space of four and a half tatami mats and eliminating decorations.
Words related to “mind and spirit”
Juko, who was influenced by Zen, pursued “the beauty that emerges by eliminating objects to the extreme”. He then sought to make up for the lack of things with “spiritual richness”.
With an emphasis on the “mind and spirit" of Chanoyu, Juko states that the greatest obstacle to the way of the tea ceremony is the “conceit and self-obsession” and preaches that no matter how proficient one may be, one should obediently ask others for instructions and, for beginners, help with the training.
In addition, there is a passage that Juko wrote to his disciples, “Be apart from the mind’s master, and be the master of the mind”. It means “Don't be swayed by a changeable mind, but put yourself in a position to control it.” Juko aimed to make the tea ceremony “a place for spiritual training” where one can control one’s mind and confront oneself.
People who influenced MURATA Juko
How Juko's way of thinking was created. I will introduce two people who strongly influenced Juko.
Noami
Without meeting Noami, Juko could not come up with new ideas.
What he learned from Noami is the first-class culture of the time such as tea ceremony, Japanese and Chinese renku (poetry), Noh (traditional play) and Tachibana (flower arrangement).
By learning these things, he honed his sense of beauty, and by fusing the Zen philosophy described below, the Chanoyu that Juko aimed for was created.
In particular, he seems to have been strongly influenced by the Japanese and Chinese renku. It is easy to imagine that the idea of “eliminating the sphere of Japanese and Chinese art” was born by familiarizing himself with Japanese and Chinese renku, which repeat the responses of Japanese and Chinese poetry.
The idea of fusing both Japanese and Chinese knowledge and developing it into something new was born from here.
Zen monk, IKKYU Sojun
Juko was also greatly influenced by the Zen monk IKKYU Sojun, who is known as the “Ikkyu-san”.
IKKYU Sojun was a Zen monk who pursued freedom and was full of rebellious spirit. Juko learned “Zen teaching that eliminates waste” and “a mind that pursues the essence of something without being particular about anything” from Sojun.
Wabicha was not completed by Juko. However, Juko played the important role in “showing the way Wabicha should aim and go”.
Later, Juko's ideas spread with the support of the rich, and his disciples continued their studies, leading to the completion of the Chanoyu culture.
History of Tea | Kenya
Kenya is an equatorial country famous for its coffee production. However, Kenya is also one of the world's leading tea producing countries.
In this article, I’m going to introduce the history of tea making in Kenya.
The history of tea in Kenya
Kenya, like India and Sri Lanka, was a former British colony.
The history of tea in Kenya is surprisingly short, and tea cultivation started in the early 1900s.
Let's take a look at the history of tea cultivation in Kenya.
Origins of tea cultivation in Kenya
Tea was first brought to Kenya from England in 1903, and the cultivated variety was Assam originally from India.
Kenya’s rich soil and favorable climate conditions for tea cultivation made it a promising tea growing area.
However, it was only after Kenya gained independence from Britain that commercial tea cultivation started in Kenya. This is because, during the colonial period, it was not allowed for individuals to grow tea freely in Kenya.
Within 50 years of its liberation from Britain, Kenya's tea industry had grown rapidly and became one of the world's leading tea producing regions, after India and Sri Lanka.
Tea making in Kenya today
Currently, Kenya has about 140,000 hectares of tea under cultivation, producing 320,000 tons of tea annually.
Also, when the production and distribution industries of tea are included, the number of people involved in tea production is about 4 million, which is 10% of the total population.
It’s easy to see why Kenya remains one of the world's leading tea producing countries today.
Expansion into East Africa
With the success of the tea industry in Kenya, tea production has spread to East African countries such as Uganda, Tanzania, Malawi and Mozambique.
The largest exporting country of these countries is the United Kingdom.
For example, 90% of the tea produced in Malawi and 80% in Mozambique is exported to the UK.
People Related to Japanese Tea | Myoe Shonin
While Myoe Shonin made great achievements as a Buddhist monk, he also laid the foundation for tea cultivation in Togano, Kyoto. In this article, I’m going to introduce Myoe Shonin.
Priest Myoe Shonin
Myoe Shonin entered the Buddhist priesthood after the death of his parents at an early age. He studied the Kegon sect and the Shingon Misshu sect one after another and was a promising priest.
At the age of 34, he was given land in Togano, Kyoto by the retired Emperor Gotoba, and opened Kozan-ji (Temple).
Myoe Shonin believed that it was more important to follow the precepts of Buddha than to stick to the sect, and he put them into practice..
He was also active in helping vulnerable people such as women who lost relatives in war. He died at the age of 59 after receiving support from many people who were impressed by his efforts.
Myoe Shonin, the founder of tea in Kyoto
Meeting with Eisai
Myoe Shonin, who studied Mahayana Buddhism regardless of sect, visited Eisai to learn Zen.
At that time, Eisai taught Myoe Shonin not only about Zen but also about the “tea” he learned in China.
Eisai conveyed the knowledge he had learned about tea to Myoe Shonin.
Eisai taught him how to utilize tea in Zen practice, its effects, cultivation methods, and suitable land for cultivation and recommended tea drinking.
By the way, at this time, tea was drunk by the method of the tea ceremony. It is a way of drinking tea made by grinding tea powder with a millstone and stirring it with a tea whisk, just like today’s Matcha.
Tea seeds from Eisai
Myoe Shonin returns to Togano, Kyoto, and receives tea seeds in the Chinese jar (Aya-no-kaki-hetachatsubo) from Eisai.
Myoe Shonin started growing tea and he also explained the benefits of tea to the monks who were practicing Buddhism. He actively promoted the tea drinking.
From a single seed to a tea garden
The cultivation of tea in Togano, started by Myoe Shonin, has flourished for about two centuries since then.Togano was a good place to grow tea, so it produced high quality tea. At that time, because of its high quality, Togano’s tea was called “honcha (real tea)”, while the tea from other regions was called “hicha (not real tea)”.
In Kozan-ji (Temple), the “Tea Dedication Ceremony” is held every November, where the first tea of the year is presented to Myoe Shonin in gratitude for his achievements.
From Togano to Uji
Myoe Shonin, who learned about the land and climate suitable for tea cultivation from Eisai, spread tea cultivation to Uji, Kyoto.
As the poem states, he judged Uji to be a suitable place to grow tea due to its cool climate and the presence of a river mist.
His judgment was correct, and later Uji tea became widely known throughout the country as “the best tea in Japan”.
At the temple gate of Manpuku-ji (Temple) in Uji, there is a stone monument which is inscribed with the poem of the following story.
When the people of Uji were given tea trees from Togano and did not know how to plant them, Myoe Shonin taught them to plant tea trees in his footsteps as he rode into the field on horseback.
The Ten Commandments of Tea
Myoe Shonin carved the on the Ten Commandments of Tea side of the teapot.
Divine Protection
The vitality of tea, which has strong roots and keeps green throughout the year, protects those who drink it.
Good health
Drinking tea can help you stay healthy and free from disease.
Gratitude to parents
The deep taste of tea regulates the mind and fosters a sense of gratitude for parents.
Friendship and harmony
The custom of drinking tea leads to a talk of close relationships and deepens relationships.
Demon surrender
The ingredients of tea relieve physical and mental fatigue and also remove any hesitation in the mind.
Practicing true mind discipline
The civility and manners of drinking tea are effective for mental training.
Sleep self-exclusion
Tea dispels drowsiness.
Disappearance of earthly desires
Drinking tea extinguishes worldly desires.
Harmonizing five organs
Drinking tea helps to improve the condition of your internal organs.
Not distracted by the end of life
Tea drinkers are not distracted by the prospect of death because they are physically and mentally fit.
In this way, we can see that the awakening and calming effects of tea, which are still known today, have been recognized since then.
It is thought that Myoe Shonin himself recognized that the effect of tea influenced the personality of Myoe Shonin, who was loved and respected by many people including the Emperor.
People Related to Japanese Tea | Baisao
While SEN-no-Rikyu is called the founder of Wabicha, Baisao (Koyugai) is known as the founder of Sencha (steeped green tea). In this article, I’m going to introduce the life of Baisao, who spread Sencha and greatly influenced the cultural people of his time.
About Baisao
Koyugai (1675-1763), also known as Baisao, was born to a doctor of the Hasuike domain (present Saga Prefecture). He became a monk, “Gekkai Gensho” (his Zen priest name) under Kerin Osho of the Obaku sect Ryushin-ji (Temple).
Baisao, who had practiced asceticism for nearly 50 years, was disappointed by the corrupt Buddhist world and left the priesthood to live in Kyoto.
Baisao opened his own tea house, the “Chatei Tsusentei” and also did something like the “mobile selling” to go to scenic places and sell tea.
Many cultural figures attracted to him by his personality began to gather around him, and from this point on he began to be affectionately called “Baisao” (it means old tea seller).
After that, he gave up his name as a priest, changed his name to “Koyugai” and continued selling tea, but as he grew older and his physical strength declined, he stopped selling tea, and died at the age of 89.
Baisao as seen in the episode
Origin of “Koyugai”
Baisao had the name “Gekkai Gensho” as a monk.One day, when he was asked about his current lifestyle, he replied “I live like this” , but they mistakenly understood “He live a very elegant life.”.
It is said that Baisao was amused by this and called himself “Koyugai”, which means “elegant” in Japanese.
Getting people to know the benefits of tea is the first thing
The signboard of Tsusentei (teahouse) said, “The cost of tea ranges from 2,000 koban (more than 100 million yen today) to half a penny (about 30 yen today). Just give me as much as you want to. You can drink it for free. We cannot make it any cheaper.”
From these words, we can see Baisao’s attitude that the first priority is to let people drink tea and to let people know the benefits of tea.
Promoting a new style of Sencha
Promoting new style of Sencha, Baisao did not like the tea ceremony at that time, which had become only a formality connected with power. He idealized the style of Lu Yu and Lutong of the Tang Dynasty.
The style of sencha by Baisao, which removes unnecessary manners and things and simply enjoys tea, spread to the common people.
Baisao, admired by the most advanced intellectuals
Although Edo (Tokyo) have been the center of Japan, Kyoto was still the most advanced city of culture.
It was there Baisao became very popular with the cultural crowd.
Baisao's high level of education, his style of living freely with conviction, and his witty way of speaking fascinated people.
Inspired by this way of life and thought, some of the leaders still make their names today, such as ITO Jakuchu, YOSA Buson, WATANABE Kazan, MATSUDAIRA Sadanobu and TANOMURA Chikuden.
Burning his own tea ceremony utensils
When Baisao became too old, to sell tea, he burned his precious tea utensils by himself.
It was from his love for the tea utensils that he spent together on the path of poverty. Baisao wrote about his feelings. “It was you (tea set) who supported me because I was poor and had no one to rely on. However, I cannot use you anymore. If I were to die and you were to be humiliated by vulgar hands, you would resent me. For this reason, I would cremate you.”
This is an episode that conveys his deep love for tea utensils, but it was a big loss that “Baisao's style of tea” did not remain in the future due to the burning of tea utensils.
Baisao's goal of “tea”
He chose to leave the floating world of Buddhism and achieve spiritual heights while living on his own.
Baisao’s means of living was the sale of tea. The tea he chose to sell was not “Matcha” but “Sencha” because he was rebellious against the tasteless world of Chanoyu. I think Baisao aimed to turn the place of selling tea into a “Salon”.
In fact, Baisao was surrounded by people of all walks of life from the common man to the cultured. There was a lot of discussion and interaction between people who enjoyed the tea and also improved each other.
Considering that some of these people are famous painters and literary men, Baisao's plan may have been successful.
The joy and essence of life Baisao pursued can be found in the time chatting and enjoying a cup of tea with those close to him away from the chores of daily life.
History of Tea | India
India is one of the world's leading tea producing countries.
In fact, the history of tea was established against the background of British colonial policy.
In this article, I’m going to introduce the history of tea in India.
The history of tea in India
India is famous for the origin of black teas such as Darjeeling and Assam.
In this section, I will introduce the history of tea in India in chronological order.
East India Company's trade monopoly and the Opium War
In order to understand the history of tea in India, it is necessary to first give a brief description of the situation in England at the time.
Around the 17 century, the Dutch brought tea to Europe, and since then tea has boomed in Britain as a simple pastime.
In England at that time, tea was enjoyed by a wide range of people from court nobles to common people.
Its popularity was so great that tea caused two wars.
The first was the Anglo-Dutch Wars, which arose due out of a backlash against the Netherlands having monopolized the trading rights of Chinese tea.
The East India Company won an exclusive trading right to import tea from China.
However, the demand for tea in Britain had rapidly increased and there was a significant trade imbalance with China, which was importing tea. It triggered the famous Opium War.
Realizing that the supply of tea would no longer be met solely through imports from China, Britain decided to cultivate tea in its own colony, India.
Discovery of Assam cultivars and development of plantation agriculture
The reason why the British were able to venture into tea cultivation in India was the discovery of a new tea tree called “Assam cultivar” in the 19th century.
In fact, Britain had previously attempted to transplant Chinese tea to India, but was repeatedly frustrated because the Chinese cultivars did not match the Indian climate.
Under these circumstances, the discovery of the Assam cultivar suitable for Indian climate led to the development of large-scale plantation agriculture in various regions of India.
Also, as tea cultivation developed in India, it was discovered in 1841 that Chinese cultivars grow in the Darjeeling region.
As India was able to produce two types of tea, its exports have grown rapidly and it became known as a Tea Country.
Assam and Darjeeling, which are famous cultivars of tea even today, were born against the background of British colonial rule.
The Origin of Chai
India became one of the world’s largest tea producers as a result of British colonial policies, but good tea was still a “for export” commodity and was not available to the Indian people.
Therefore, among the people of India, “Chai” came to be a regular drink.
Chai was originally made from the scum of green tea leaves, but the scum is too bitter to drink.
So the Indians drank tea brewed from the scum of tea leaves mixed with sugar or milk to make it taste better.
Thus, Chai gradually became popular among Indians and became a national drink in India.
Nowadays, Chai is found on the Starbucks drink menu and is loved not only in India but all over the world.
History of Tea | Taiwan
In recent years, Taiwan has been attracting attention due to the boom of tapioca milk tea.
In this article, I’m going to explain the history of tea in Taiwan in detail.
The history of tea in Taiwan
Let’s take a look at the history of tea in Taiwan in chronological order.
Origin of tea in Taiwan
It is said that tea was first introduced to Taiwan around 1796 when Taiwan was under the rule of the Qing Dynasty.
It was the beginning of Taiwanese tea when a Chinese merchant named Kacho brought to Taiwan oolong tea seedlings from Fujian Province.
In 1862, a leader from Fujian Province introduced method of tea production, and began making tea in Chinese style.
Expansion of Taiwanese tea
Taiwanese tea expanded rapidly with the support of John Dot, an English man.
In 1865, he established a trading company called “Bao Shun” in Tanshui, Taiwan, and brought large quantities of tea plants and seeds from Fujian, China.
Then, he established a system in which he loaned it to farmers around the country and bought the tea leaves again after harvesting.
In 1866, Taiwanese tea leaves exported to the United States and Australia via Fujian Province in China.
Taiwanese tea, which is of high quality and has gained particular popularity in the United States, began to be exported under the name “Formosa Tea” (Tea on the beautiful island) in 1969.
Taiwan also began exporting its tea to the United Kingdom in 1972, expanding its sales channels gradually.
Influence of Nittoh Black Tea
Nittoh Black Tea is a famous Japanese brand that has been popular in Japan for a long time.
However, Nittoh Black Tea was originally produced in Taiwan.
I will describe the influence that Japan had on the tea industry in Taiwan during the War.
Promotion of Taiwan tea industry
With Japan's victory in the Sino-Japanese War in 1895, Taiwan came under Japanese rule.
In 1903, it was decided to set up a testing site for tea as part of its governance policy, to further promote the tea industry in Taiwan.
Entry of Mitsui Gomei Kaisha
Mitsui Gomei was one of the companies that entered Taiwan soon after the start of Japanese rule.In 1908, the company established a branch in Taiwan to introduced the British method of mass production of tea.
Mitsui, which has played a central role in Taiwan's tea industry, set up tea factories one after another in such places as Dairiao, Daxi and Miaoli.
The company began full-scale tea production in 1924, and selling canned “Mitsui Black Tea” and (later renamed “Nitto Black Tea”) in Taiwan.
After that, Nitto Black Tea came to be consumed by middle class and above people in Japan and gradually became recognized as a Japan’s tea brand.
After liberation from Japanese occupation, Taiwan Agriculture and Forestry took over all facilities and capital of the tea industry.
Of course, the domination of Taiwan by the war is unforgivable, but it is true that Mitsui’s business is the foundation of the tea industry in Taiwan.
Modern times
The tea industry is still thriving in Taiwan, and oolong tea and black tea are highly valued around the world.
This is because Taiwanese tea is grown on a slope 600-800 meters above sea level, and has s unique aroma.
One of the attractions of Taiwanese tea is that we can enjoy a wide variety of tea.
Various types of black tea are grown, including:
- Taiwanese Tea No.7, Taicha No. 8 (suitable for milk tea)
- Taiwanese Tea No.18 (cinnamon and mint fragrance)
- Taiwanese Tea No.22 (floral fragrance)
- Taiwanese Tea No.23 (refreshing aroma like lemon or yuzu)
Among them, Taiwanese Tea No.18 is favored by Westerners, while No.23 is favored by young people.
As more varieties are developed to attract new customers, Taiwan’s tea industry is expected to continue to develop.
History of Tea | Europe & America
Tea is also a popular luxury in Europe and the United States, and in the past there were even wars over its import and export.
In this article, I will explain the history of tea in Europe and the United States in detail, from the introduction of tea to modern tea consumption habits.
The history of Tea in Europe and the United States
Let's take a look at the history of tea in Europe and the US along a timeline.
The introduction of tea
Tea was first introduced to Europe from China in 1610, and it was the Dutch “East India Company” that brought it back.
Europe has an image of black tea, but it was not black tea that was first introduced but green tea.
However, when tea was first introduced, it was considered to be a luxury product that only the upper class enjoyed.
Tea was introduced to England from the Netherlands, and created a big boom among the aristocracy.
Expansion and Decline of the East India Company
The Dutch East India Company had an exclusive trade with the rest of Europe, including monopolizing trade with Southeast Asia, China, Japan.
Therefore in Europe at that time, products from East and Southeast Asia such as tea could only be obtained through the Netherlands.
The East India Company, which monopolized trade, seemed to be making a lot of profit, but it gradually lost its momentum due to internal improprieties and the war against the UK over tea.
In the 18th century, the power of the UK became even stronger and the Netherlands had no choice but to dissolve the East India Company.
The Opium War and the beginning of the plantation
Tea from the Netherlands became very popular in the UK in the 18 and 19th centuries.
The UK, which became the largest tea consumer in Europe, would import large quantities of tea from China.
At that time, the UK was paying for silver in exchange for tea, but the trade imbalance gradually increased and the inflow of silver from the UK became very large.
The UK was dissatisfied with this and decided to sell opium to China as a countermeasure.
As a result, opium was widespread in China, and the country was in trouble.
The Chinese dynasty set out to ban opium imports and crack down on smuggling, but the UK countered by force.
This was the famous “Opium War”.
In the end, Britain won the war and would demand from China the price of the opium it had confiscated and a large amount of reparations.
The beginning of the plantation
At first the UK relied on Chinese exports for most of its tea it consumed, but in the 1830s it began growing tea in its colony, India.
The reason for this was the discovery of tea trees in the Assam region of India.
By the way, the name of Assam tea which is a cultivar of black tea that is popular even today, comes from this Indian name.
As a result, high-quality tea has been cultivated in India that it fetched the highest price at an auction held in London in 1839.
The Assam Corporation, the plantation-based tea production company was launched under the auspices of the British government.
In addition to the Assam region, plantations have been developed in a wide range of states, including Bihar and Bengal.
Especially, the tea grown in Darjeeling, West Bengal, is famous even today.
Modern tea consumption habits
Historically, tea has been so popular in Europe and the US that wars broke out over its import and export.
It's true that tea is still very popular today, and if you look at the top 10 consumption of tea in the world, you'll see that Western countries such as the UK and the US are also ranked.
Although tea was originally just a luxury item, in recent years there has been a trend to capture tea from a different angle.
For example, it is a hot topic that Gyokuro and Sencha (steeped green tea) are sold at Starbucks Coffee in the United States because of their health benefits.
As evidenced by the 6.5 fold increase in tea exports from Japan to the US from 2000 to 2014, the habit of consuming tea as a healthy food has taken root in many people.
As you can see, tea is a drink that transcends time and borders and continues to be loved around the world.
History of Tea | China
China is the world's No. 1 country in terms of tea production and consumption.
In this article, I’m going to introduce the history of tea in China along a chronological line.
The history of tea in China
Let's take a look at the history of tea in China along a timeline.
Tang Dynasty (618-907)
The custom of drinking tea spread throughout China during the Tang Dynasty.
However, the common people were unable to drink tea, which was a luxury item, and it was generally recognized as a present to the emperor or a drink for the aristocracy.
It is said that the mainstream of tea at that time was solid tea called “Heicha”.
Heicha is a kind of tea made by solidifying steamed tea leaves. You can drink it by putting it in hot water after roasting it with fire.
By the way, Heicha was first introduced to Japan through Japanese envoys to the Tang Dynasty.
Origin of Chakyo (Tea Sutra)
Also during the Tang Dynasty, the oldest book on tea in the world, Chakyo (Tea Sutra) was written.
The author of Chakyo was a literary man, Rikuu, who is said to be the originator of the tea ceremony.
In this book, he wrote all kinds of information related to tea such as the origin, production method, history and production area.
Also, he wrote that tea is not just a beverage, but is described as “should be drunk by a man of virtue”.
Song Dynasty (960-1279)
In the Song Dynasty, not only aristocrats and government officials but also the wealthy common people started to drink tea.
In this period, the production method of Heicha, which was mainstream in the Tang Dynasty, became a little complicated and came to be called “Dancha”.
Also, it was around this time that the culture of “Tocha (tea ceremony)” which was practiced in Japan from the Kamakura to the Muromachi periods, began to flourish.
Tocha is a kind of game to determine the origin and quality of the tea by drinking it.
Development of tea utensils
In the Song Dynasty, tea utensils began to be recognized as an important tool for the enjoyment of tea.
This led to the development of technologies for making white porcelain to enjoy the color of tea, and celadon porcelain to enjoy the color of containers.
Ming Dynasty (1368-1644)
In the Ming Dynasty, tea became even more popular, and not only the rich but also the common people began to drink tea.
Dancha required time and effort to produce and its taste was not so good.
In the Ming Dynasty, the tea called Sancha was made by crushing the tea leaves into small pieces with a mortar or other tool.
It is said that Sancha had become popular because the taste and aroma have greatly improved compared to Dancha.
Until the Ming Dynasty, kyusu (teapots) were mainly made of iron or silver, but in this period, ceramic kyusu were made and used.
The Qing Dynasty (1616-1912)
The Qing Dynasty was the most prosperous of tea in Chinese history.
Oolong tea, which is familiar to us today, was developed in Fujian Province during this period.
It also gave birth to a culture of taking time to enjoy tea with a focus on tea utensils.
Here I will introduce some of the tea culture and historical backgrounds of the Qing Dynasty.
Formation of various ways to enjoy tea
In the Qing Dynasty, people enjoyed tea in various ways.
Specialty tea was produced in various regions, and six major teas (blue tea, Chinese black tea, green tea, black tea, white tea, and yellow tea) were sold in the market.
In addition, it seems that the preferred tea in each region was different.
People in Zhejiang and Jiangsu preferred to drink green tea, while people in the northern region preferred to drink flower tea.
Export of tea to England
One of the characteristics of the Qing Dynasty was the mass production of black tea.
Especially after the Qing Dynasty allowed European countries to start trade in 1685, a large amount of tea was exported to other countries.
England was its largest trading partner, and for the Qing, tea was a great means of obtaining silver.
However, while England imported a large amount of tea, China did not import much from England, creating a significant trade imbalance.
So England tried to recover the silver by selling opium to China, which triggered the famous “Opium War”.
In this way, China at that time was proud of its tea production so much that the domestic situation was affected by the tea.
Modern times
In modern China, tea is popular as a national drink.
Both production and consumption are the highest in the world, and today’s China can be said to be a “Tea Country”.
“The most popular tea in China is not oolong tea or jasmine tea, but green tea.” says Wang Jing of Osaka University, Depatment of Tourism.
Chinese green tea differs from Japanese tea in that it is roasted in an iron pot without being steamed, so it has a simple taste than Japanese tea.
History of Tea | Sri Lanka
Sri Lanka is the birthplace of the world-famous Ceylon Tea.
In this article, I’m going to introduce the history of tea in Sri Lanka.
The history of tea in Sri Lanka
The history of tea making in Sri Lanka began with the British colonial policies.
I will introduce the history of tea making in Sri Lanka along the time line.
Was it once a major place for coffee?
Sri Lanka is now well known for its tea production, but it was originally known as one of the world's leading coffee producing regions.
This is because the Netherlands, which at the time had a major influence in Europe, had been cultivating coffee in Sri Lanka since 1658 as part of its colonial policy.
The tropical climate of Sri Lanka made it a great place to grow coffee because coffee can only be grown where there is a lot of rain and sunshine.
As a result, the amount of coffee produced in Sri Lanka increased rapidly.
By the 19th century, Sri Lanka had grown into a major coffee producing region, ranking the first in the world in terms of coffee exports.
The end of coffee farming and the beginning of tea production
Initially Sri Lanka was ruled by the Netherlands, but in 1802, the country was changed to Great Britain.
Even after that, coffee farming flourished in Sri Lanka, but in 1868, the “rust disease” spread to the coffee plantations.
Rust disease is a kind of infectious disease, which is caused by mold with orange spots on the leaves. Plants that are infected with rust eventually die.
Devastated by rust disease, the coffee industry declined and was replaced by the production of tea that was so prevalent in Britain at the time.
The first tea cultivar brought to Sri Lanka was Assam, which was discovered in India in the 19th century.
At that time, India, like Sri Lanka, was dominated by the United Kingdom, and large-scale plantation farming was practiced as a tea producing area.
Sri Lanka was chosen as the land to increase the productivity of the tea industry based in India.
The birthplace of “Lipton”
As mentioned above, Sri Lanka used to cultivate Assam cultivars that were originally brought from India.
Assam cultivars were brought to Sri Lanka by a man named “Thomas Lipton”.
He is the founder of Lipton, a tea company that is still famous today.
He entered the tea business at the age of 39. He bought up all of tea gardens in Ceylon and stared his tea business.
Lipton, a man of great business ability, created the catchphrase “From the tea garden to the teapot” and launched a campaign in various countries.
The campaign was so successful that the names “Ceylon Tea” and “Lipton” spread around the world.
History of Japanese Tea | Edo Period
History of Japanese tea: Edo period
The Edo period (1603-1867) was a very important period in the history of Japanese tea, with the development of Gyokuro and the start of export of Japanese tea.
In this article, I’m going to explain the history of tea in the Edo period.
Development of Sencha and Gyokuro
Uji in Kyoto had been growing tea since ancient times, but in the late 16th century, a unique method of growing tea called “the covered cultivation” was invented and succeeded in producing highly flavored tea.
However, this method of growing tea leaves under covers was not permitted for everyone, and was only applicable to houses with a limited position.
Under such circumstances, NAGATANI Soen (1681-1778) developed a new production method for Sencha (steeped green tea).
After a great deal of trial and error, he came up with the idea of a production method called “a method for producing green Sencha” in 1738.
It is a method of tea production by drying tea leaves in a drying oven and kneading them by hands.
By this method, green tea with much better taste, aroma and color can be produced.
Later, when Soen took the tea to Edo, YAMAMOTO Kahee, a tea dealer in Nihonbashi, praised it very much.
Soen's tea was sold through YAMAMOTO Kahee, and since then it has spread to various places along with the production method.
In 1835, the sixth generation, YAMAMOTO Kahee created the tea that was described as “taste like honeydew” and Gyokuro that is still popular today was born.
What kind of tea was drunk in the Edo period?
In the Edo period, the culture of drinking tea was widespread among the common people.
According to researcher NISHIMURA Toshinori, the types of tea familiar to the common people gradually became more sophisticated from dark brown coarse tea to yellowish green tea.
The type of tea used to be drunk differs a little depending upon the family and social status, but there is no doubt that there was such a transition.
Modernization of tea distribution
The Edo period was also a time when distribution systems such as wholesalers, brokers, and retailers were developed that are similar to those of today.
It is not an exaggeration to say that the development of the distribution system was one of the factors that led to the spread of tea production throughout Japan.
It is a well-known fact that Japan had a policy of seclusion during the Edo period, but only Dejima (island) of Nagasaki was allowed to trade.
In fact, tea was an important export there and the basis of foreign trade.
At the time of the unequal treaties with the United States, the United Kingdom and other countries, 181 tons of tea was exported.
For this reason, tea was recognized as a useful export item for earning foreign currency even in the Meiji period (1868-1912).